In addition, the additive packages last longer due to the properties of the synthetic blends. Lubricity to keep the parts free moving, and suspension to carry the waste particle of combustion to the filter where it is removed. Synthetics can last much longer in Lubricity and suspension, two key factors in the use of oil. Over time Dino breaks down in all factors, additive packaged, lubricity, holding suspension etc. The true purpose of a syn is much better protection than any dino oil. True, no increase for MPG will be seen with Mobil 1 in the Prius, and you really wont see any in any other car for that matter, this isnt the reason to use a synthetic. However, - it has cleared up spontaneously for me. I have read in some of these forums about having to "reboot" - power cycle the vehicle to clear up similar problems. Was it a software glitch? (I've been a software designer/developer for 35 years and have caused more than my share of bugs). So - any ideas out there? I doubt that it was ice (we do live in Minnesota - but haven't seen that much ice). #Prius master reboot Patch#I questioned the service manager for several minutes - telling him that there was no ice - I hadn't heard the brakes pulsing - and it went on for about 1 minute (an awfully long patch of ice). They surmised that we had hit a patch of ice. They said that it was probably just the "traction control" kicking in (supposedly that was what the yellow "car" icon meant). The dealer service dept didn't find any problems - no "obd II codes" set in. We didn't drive the vehicle until the time we took it in. We then called the Toyota dealer who said to bring it in. The last time I went about 1/2 block at 10 miles/hour - when it suddenly took off and accelerated normally - and the yellow light went off. It turns green and I try to take off - but the Prius won't go faster than about 10 miles an hour - and a Yellow "car shaped" icon lit up (just below the temperature light). I have a Toyota Prius 2005 (which I love) - with 19,000 miles - which has had a "stalling" problem at take off - on three occasions. I'm curious as to how the keyless key managed to stay stuck in it's slot, and how the dash lights stayed on while the rest of the car appeared to be dead. After you make the connections, you should be able to hit the Start button to reboot the computers and hopefully get things working again. #Prius master reboot manual#The manual should indicate a prefered negative connection point to use for jumpstarting. Positive goes to this post, negative goes to any unpainted engine part. There is a 12-volt positive terminal inside the main fuse box of the engine compartment specifically for this purpose. You do not have to crawl back into the back of the car to get at the actual 12-volt battery. #Prius master reboot how to#The instructions on how to do so are in the manual. You should be able to "jump-start" the car to get it working again. It sounds like you ran the 12-volt battery down by accident, either by leaving a door open or an interior light. The 12-volt battery is used to "bootup" the computers, which in turn connects the high-voltage main battery to the car (it is isolated via relays when the car is off). Evanr1, pardon the questions, but how exactly did the Prius initially lock up? Also, how is that the "starter" battery is known to be dead but the main battery is known to be good? Generally, if the small 12-volt "starter" battery is dead, then you should get no dash lights and no interior lights.
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